As we move slowly along a river on a beautiful train ride from Cusco to Lake Titicaca, I want to make sure I’m putting into words what I can remember about this wonderful trip through Peru.
Cusco was pretty special for us. When we first arrived, the altitude made us walk pretty slowly and we would get tired after walking one or two blocks.
Mike got a few headaches despite our morning coca teas. We were fortunate to find the perfect apartment just a block away from Plaza de Armas, the lady that managed it helped us with almost every tour we took, and along the way with everything we needed. Indira, shout out to you.
We went to Palcoyo Mountains two days after arriving. Big mistake, they are at an elevation of 16,000 feet, and if we thought it was difficult to walk one block in Cusco which is about 11,000 feet, you can image how we felt climbing a mountain so high up. So, if you come to Cusco, give yourself at least 3 full days to get used to the altitude, then go to Machu Picchu. Despite the difficult climb and the altitude sickness it was still worth it. The rainbow colored mountains are beautiful.
Just a couple of days later, we were on our way to Machu Picchu… which I already talked about on my previous blog.
Back in Cusco we went to all kinds of wonderful restaurants, we ate delicious food, but no alcohol for me. Every time I drank, I got a headache. So I learned the hard way, "mates" only.
People will come at you to sell you anything, from trips, to art, to massages. We had our lady that would set up our trips, but we noticed that on the street the same tour was almost half the price, so we decided to go with a random tour agency.
The following morning, we were up, bright and early for our tour, and no one picked us up. When I texted the kid, he tried to blame it on me, that I haven’t given him the address. We had a copy of the receipt and our address was there. I wanted my money back, and he said he would bring it that afternoon. He didn’t, then asked if he could do it the following morning, and if we would reconsider taking a tour. Again, he was a no show the following morning. So, we went to the police. Twenty four hours later, and mad at myself, we were at the office of a very surprised tour agency owner with the tourist police. They had to pay us back right then and there, no more buts.
The moral of the story is: if you go to Cusco, make sure you only pay half in advance for any tour, and if you are in trouble with the agency you chose, do not hesitate on grabbing any police officer you see on the street. The tourist police won’t hesitate to help you out! I’ve said it before and I will said it again: “lo barato, sale caro”. - I don’t know if there is a saying like that in English: “Sometimes, cheaper will end up costing you more…”?
After those two lost days (not really :-), we went to at least 4 wonderful museums, and the theater.
We went to almost all the archaeological sites around Cusco. Every tour started around 4:30 am and ended in the evening. The rides were a bit bumpy, and the drive would be from 3 to 4 hours each way. Totally worth it though.
Saqsaywaman: presumed to be an Inca military fortress and a gathering site overlooking Cusco. It was built with huge stones that fit perfectly together.
Tambomachay: This beautiful Inca site with canals, waterfalls and aqueducts, might have been built to worship the god of rain.
Chinchero: part of the Sacred Valley, a beautiful town displaying Inca architecture and culture mixed with Catholicism.
Sadly, everywhere we went, we heard a similar if not the same story. “Here, there used to be a Sun Inca Temple, but a Catholic church was built right on top, to make sure the Incas would not adore their pagan gods”.
Moray: these Inca ruins, consist of several terraced circular depressions with an irrigation system. It is believed that they were used for farming. The wide temperature differences in the terraces have created micro climates, similar to what is achieved in greenhouses in modern times, and is believed to have been used by the Incas to study the effects of different climatic conditions on crops.
Anyways, even just by looking at what it is left of their civilization, you can immediately notice the amazing intelligence they possessed. The incredible architecture and how their irrigation systems are still in use today. Also, how close they were to nature. They worship “Pacha Mama” (Mother Earth), “Inti” the Sun God or Creator, and “Apu Illapu” the Rain God (lightings, rain, rainbows).
We learned about the weaving and how they learn from generation to generation. The Alpaca wool is water resistant, so that’s what they use to protect themselves from the weather. In the winter from the rain, snow and wind and in the summer from the sun.
How they use natural dyes. It was surprising to see a little bug getting crushed to make red dye, and how they change the intensity of the red by just rubbing a stone on it. The plants they use give them vibrant colors that have been used for millennia.
We also learned about a salt farm that can only be own by people from their town. One person can own 5-10 plots and they pass them over to their children. The day we visited, the sun was so harsh and it was so hot on that valley that it was hard to stay a long time. They have to work really hard, they were prepping the plots since the rainy season was just ending. They will be able to work it only 5 months out of the year.
Laguna Humantay: This magical lagoon is located in between two sacred mountains in the Andes: Humantay y Salkantay. The hike up the mountain to the lake was very difficult, but worth every step. It took about 1 1/2 hours to hike up, and about 1 hour to go down. When you start the hike it's about 3850 mts, when you get to the lagoon, you are about 4200 mts (13779 feet). The rocky ascent is a bit dangerous, it's cold and windy, but absolutely stunning. No one is allowed in the water, since it is the main water source for a few towns around it.
Our train ride from Cusco to Puno (Lake Titicaca) has been amazing. Lots of entertainment inside and outside. The views are breathtaking. About 9 hours into our trip, we passed a city called Juliaca. Right outside the city, people were going to the river to wash their clothes. The train goes literally through the city. On both sides you can see a market that goes through the city. They sell absolutely anything you can imagine, from car parts to tarot readings. They call it their little China. If you need tennis shoes, you come here and you will get something very similar to name brands for almost nothing. Peruvians come here for anything they need. Pretty interesting town in the Altiplano.
We thought 10 1/2 hours in train was going to be pretty exhausting, but to tell you the truth, we have not felt it. Between the food, the entertainment and the music, it's hard to get bored.
After arriving to Puno, we are now settling into our apartment on the top of a mountain, overlooking the city. Again, going up and down the hill was a hard workout. We stayed there for a few days and then went to Uros Islands.
We stayed at the floating islands of Uros for a few days, about 20 mins by boat into Lake Titicaca. It was chilly (-1 C), but wonderful. Friendly indigenous people living in the floating islands from generations. Those are the ancestors of the coast inhabitants that fled the Spaniards. They settled first in boats, and then decided to built the islands using the lake’s own Totora sedges. They have to constantly put down fresh Totora layers on the floor, since that vegetation will dry up and become dirt after just 8-9 months. We also visited the Island of Taquile. Wonderful hike from one side of the island to the other.
We stayed in Nelio and his family's island in their “hotel”. A beautiful room overlooking the water. We enjoyed a heater and hot water. They used solar panels for electricity and hot water, but only for the hotel. Uros inhabitants will bathe twice a week in the lake… did I mentioned it was about -1 C when we were there?
Mike enjoyed fishing at freezing temperatures one morning. They use nets there, leave them overnight, but have to go really early to retrieve them before the birds find the fish!
After Uros we went to Ariquipa, the second largest city in Perú. We stayed closed to the Plaza, and were able to get a haircut and find some new clothes before heading to Nasca.
Nasca is a little town between Arequipa and Lima. Desert like weather. We walked through town in about 1 hour, visited the Nasca Museum, and went on a small plane to see the Nasca Lines. The feeling of seeing something so old like the Nasca lines gave me chills. I have only seen these lines thanks to my mom who always had National Geographic or some enciclopedias at home. Seeing them first hand was an experience like no other.
Now we are at the Peninsula de Paracas! We finally reached the coast and were able to check out penguins and other sea animals. We saw dolphins hunting right on the beach, pelicans almost as big as me! Beautiful wildlife in a small protected area where the desert meets the ocean.
We will continue our journey along the coast... searching for warmer weather and the perfect place to relax and rest.
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