I was on the phone with my brother the other day trying to explain our experience here in Buenos Aires so far.
Some cultural adjustments for sure, starting with the time. Mike and I used to go to bed really early around 8:30 or 9 pm and wake up around 5 am. Mostly because we got used to it while we were on the road in the US/Canada. Once the natural light was gone, there was not much else to do in the mountains except for a good fire and a glass of wine…
Buenos Aires is alive at night. Here in Palermo, people start getting ready to go have dinner around 9 pm! Reminds us of Santiago! Places are open on a Monday night until 3 am and it feels like the party never stops.
So we adapted.
The main thing we have been enjoying here is that Argentinians do not rush to eat. Friends and family hang out and unwind. No one will bring you the check unless you ask for it. No one is rushing you out the door to turn a table. It’s refreshing.
And no matter how many times I ask for a glass of wine, they always bring us a bottle!
I guess no one here drinks just one glass of wine?
I guess the biggest difference we have experienced here is that everything moves with cash only. If you are in Argentina, do not use your credit card! The charges will double. There are two different exchange rates. The airport and the banks will get you one rate $1 for about 100 pesos, but the streets will double it: $1 for 200 pesos. I don’t understand the reason, but if you pay cash for everything you are saving money.
When we did our first exchange, we went to a friend of a friend’s financial office. It was a bit scary the first time. The security is tight, we had to go through a series of doors while being monitored with cameras. It felt like one of those movies depicting the prohibition era, when people will go to a speakeasy bar, and had to have a secret password to go in. Anyways, all restaurants, and little shops accept dollars or will exchange for the higher rate if the dollars have no visible marks or tears. I was very surprise at the salon where I did my hair. My bills had little marks with a marker, and they would not accept them. Also, when you come, make sure to bring $100’s, not $20 (they will give you 20% less pesos for lower denominations!).
Apart from the crazy exchange rates, people are friendly and generous. There is a lot of begging in the streets. Since most restaurants have tables outside now, people will approach you and ask for your leftovers. This is pretty sad to see, it has happened every single night in every neighborhood we have been. I have never given money, but I will never deny food, I guess I got that from my mom.
We have enjoyed the long walks around our neighborhood, the cobblestones and twinkly lights all over the streets. The sound of laughter and music and most of all the food… I have to confess, I have eaten the best parrilladas (grilled meats) here, chorizo is my absolute favorite now.
During the weekends, there are street vendors with artisan products. I’m already enjoying a beautiful new strap for my camera and Mike has a new kitchen knife. There are artists displaying beautiful crafts, and of course food. The market is very different from the Costa Rican market (with every single kind of fruit and veggies), the markets here are more like a wine & arts festival that you would find in the Bay Area. Very artsy and relaxed. There are actual bookstores in every corner… It’s very interesting to see people reading super late at night. Most stores are open in the afternoon/night.
Boca is amazing, it’s a very spicy neighborhood full of color and drama. In the “Caminito” (little road), you will find music, art and tango! The houses are painted in colorful and clashing ways and soccer is big here! We were planning on going to a match next week in la Bombonera to see Argentina vs Venezuela, but the tickets were gone in less than 1 hour last Friday, so no “futbol” for us.
Just 30 mins away by train, most city people visit El Tigre to unwind or spend a romantic weekend by the water. This town is very peculiar since everyone commutes by kayak, canoe or boats. Tigre is located at the entry point of the Paraná delta which consist of several islands. People live on those islands in stilt houses, and kids here learn to row pretty young. Rowing is their favorite sport; however, when kids get a bit older, they prefer a jet-ski over a canoe :-)
There are beautiful mansions and clubs, specially for rowing, as well as museums and art. There are no bridges on the delta, so locals depend on water busses and / or canoes to go get groceries or go into town. The Paraná delta has suffered from deforestation and pollution. However, you can still find fauna and flora endemic to the region.
We chose to be in BA for a month to rest from 9 months of traveling, and it has been just that…a beautiful place where we can go out to dinner, read, paint, take pictures and relax.
We finally got an update from Peace Corps today, still very vague. Hopefully, this adventure will continue soon. There are news that the first group of volunteers were receiving orientation in DC and deploying this week. We are well rested, and ready to go!
Que lindo! ❤️